Old City Jerusalem
Our first day of three full days in Jerusalem, and boy had this place changed after only a few days. We had a nicer room this time in the same hotel at YMCA Three Arches, but Israel's government had introduced strict measures shutting down shops and with tourist numbers already in serious decline, many of the shops within the Old City refused to open at all. Despite having three days here, there were some parts that we missed out on, either being shut down on government orders or for the Sabbath. The good news is, that we have enough reason to make a second trip to Israel once everyone does some serious settling down. Due to how many things we saw in Jerusalem, I have divided the next three posts into separate sections of some of the many sites we found in the Old City, rather than a step by step account.
The Old City of Jerusalem is a small one square kilometer area located on the edge of the Valley of Kidron and the Valley of Hinnom. The earliest traces of human existence has been dated to the Chalcolithic period some 6,000 - 6,500 years ago, however the first permanent settlement goes back around 4,000 years. Jerusalem holds the record as being the most fought over real estate in world history. It holds extreme religious importance by the three main Abrahamic religions, Judaism, Islam and Christianity. Since the beginning, it has been completely destroyed twice, attacked and besieged 75 times and captured or recaptured 44 times. Recently Israel declared it the capital of Israel, but I'm not touching that subject with a ten foot pole.
The Quarters
The old city is divided into 'quarters' of varying size - Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian. Also within the old site is the Temple mount, an area in the south west corner currently home to al-Aqsa mosque, the Dome of the Rock and the Dome of the Chain as well as four minarets. The old city is surrounded by high walls, which have been built, rebuilt and expanded more times than I care to know about. The current city walls were built between 1525 and 1542AD. The walls have had a varying number of gates over time and there are currently nine open gates and three which have been sealed, all of which are the oldest ones. The oldest gate is excavator's gate.
Armenian Quarter
The Armenian quarter is located in the south west of the Old City and can be entered from outside the city walls through Zion gate in the southern wall or Jaffa gate on the western wall. There are many fascinating specialty shops and businesses in the quarter as well as a number of churches.
Muslim Quarter
The Muslim quarter is the largest in terms of space. The most famous landmarks in the section is the bulk of the Via Dolorosa processional route. Three gates lead into the Muslim quarter, Damascus and Herod's gate to the north and Lion's gate to the east. The Muslim quarter is where you will find the best food and many of the markets, although a bit more rowdy than the markets in the Christian quarter.
Christian Quarter
The Christian quarter is the second largest of the quarters in the north west quadrant of the city. The most famous landmark here is of course the Church of the Holy Scepluchre, built at the site of Jesus's crucifixion. The Christian quarter can be entered from outside the city walls via New Gate in the north or Jaffa on the west.
Jewish Quarter
The Jewish quarter is located in the south east quadrant of the Old City and is entered from outside the city walls via Dung gate in the southern wall. The most famous landmark here is the Wailing wall, which is the wall surrounding Temple Mount.
Chapel of Ascension
We began with getting the Mount of Olives out of the way, taking a very overpriced taxi who was clearly struggling to find any business at all. He was very keen to sign us up for a full day to the Dead Sea and anywhere else we wanted to go, but as we had already done just about everything we cared to this visit, the Mount of Olives it was. Which is just as well as he charged us 92 shekels (almost $50!) for around a four kilometer drive. Checking on Google, this appears to be around four times the price, so not sure if he decided to throw in his waiting time into that. Fool me once..
The church of Ascencion is a small chapel built at the site where Jesus ascended into heaven, forty days after his resurrection. The actual location of the event was slightly further down the Mount of Olives. Followers of Jesus worshiped here in secret until Constantine issued a decree for Christians allowing them to worship without fear of persecution.
A shrine was erected here soon afterwards, followed by a church which was completed at the end of the the 4th century. Some of the remains of this Byzantine church can still be seen around the walls. The church was destroyed by the Persian's near the beginning of the 7th century, then rebuilt about 65 years later. This was destroyed again and rebuilt by the Crusaders in the 12th century. In 1187 most of the church was destroyed by the armies of Salah ad-Din, however they were kind enough to leave the edicule that still survives today. When Jerusalem fell, the Crusaders fled north to their final stronghold in the Middle East, Akko. Or Akka. Or Acre. Or Acca. Or Ptolemais, depending on who you ask. The shrine was converted into a mosque by the new landlords, but after seeing that the bulk of visits were from Christians, they built a new mosque next to the shrine rather than in its place as a show of goodwill.
Today the octagonal shrine is still under the authority of a Jerusalem Islamic trust and entrance costs 3 shekels (about $1.50au). There is one entrance into the shrine and there is very little inside. The main attraction here is the 'Ascension rock' on the floor with an imprint of Christ's right foot which was left when he ascended into heaven. The rock containing his left foot print was taken to Al-Aqsa mosque located on the Temple Mount in the south east corner of the old city.
As we were leaving, I looked back to see the sun right over the top of the Chapel of ascension. I wonder if this is what Jesus's rise into heaven would have looked like?
"When he had said these things, as they were looking on, he was lifted up, and a cloud took him out of their sight." - Acts 1:9
Gethsemane Basilica of Agony
The Basilica of Gethsemane, also more commonly known as the Church of All Nations, is at the foot of the Mount of Olives. It was built over the top of two previous churches, a 4th century Byzantine church destroyed by an earthquake in the 8th century and a smaller Crusader built church which was abandoned in the 14th century.
The church is right next to the garden of Gethsemane, a place where Jesus and his disciples regularly met. In front of the altar is a section of bedrock that is said to be the very place that Jesus prayed in agony prior to his arrest.
This current very beautiful Roman Catholic church was completed in 1924 and as its name suggests, was funded by a host of countries. Today it is used by a number of Christian denominations. The Australian's contribution was the metal crown surrounding the bedrock. This church was one of the busiest places we visited in Jerusalem.
"As they were eating, He said, “Truly I say to you that one of you will betray Me.”
- Matthew 26:21
Garden of Gethsemane
The garden of Gethsemane was the place where Jesus was arrested the night before his crucifixion. As this was the usual place where the disciples and Jesus gathered, it was easy for Judas to lead the Temple guards to him. Like most places in Jerusalem, this one is also disputed as to its exact location. The Fransican's claim the garden of the Church of All Nations to be the place, the Greeks likewise say it's at their church and the Russians say its next to their Church of Mary Magdalele. Another suggested location is just north of the Virgin Mary's Tomb. The garden of Gethsemane may well have once included all of the above mentioned areas, but it is widely agreed that no one knows the exact place within the garden that the Biblical events took place.
The Mount of Olives of course got its name from all of the olive groves that were grown on its sloped and the name Gethsemane comes from the Aramaic word Gat Shmaním, meaning 'Olive Press'. We visited only the Gethsemane garden next to the Church of all Nations. There are a handful of ancient olive trees here dating back around 1,000 years each. Each of these trees has a protective screen around each one to protect from souvenir hunters, but when the trees are pruned, a pile of branches are cut into smaller pieces for visitors to take a piece if they wish. As we live in Australia with very strict biosecurity rules, we opted not to take a piece of the available trimmings. In the garden we also spotted hundreds of snake-eyed lizards, identified by the bright green coloring on their face and belly.
"Going a little farther, he fell with his face to the ground and prayed,“My Father, if it is possible, may this cup be taken from me. Yet not as I will, but as you will.” - Matthew 26:39
St Mary Magdalene Church
The Church of Mary Magdalene is a Russian Orthodox church on the side of the Mount of Olives. It does not claim to have any connection the Mary Magdalene, but is merely a dedication to her. It is the most easily identifiable church (or at least the easiest to spot) from its huge gold domes. Photography is prohibited within the church, although this didn't stop a few tourists from having a go.
On either side of the main altar are the encased remains of two martyred saints, Elisabeth Feodorovna and Varvara Yakoleva. Elisabeth has a very interesting history, born a princess into the Prussian Royal family. She eventually married Sergei Alexandrovich, Grand Duke of Russia. He was assassinated and Elisabeth became a nun, sold all her possessions and with the proceeds founded a convent which later included a chapel, orphanage and a hospital, providing much needed help to the poor and the sick around Moscow. Lenin ordered her arrested and she, along with eight others, including members of the Russian Royal family were murdered by being thrown into a 20meter deep shaft in an abandoned iron mine. Only one was killed after hand grenades were thrown in after them, the rest dying painfully from their wounds and of starvation. Amongst the victims were Varvada Yakovleva who was Elisabeth's former maid and then fellow sister of the convent who refused to leave Elisabeth's side at the time of her arrest. Their remains were located a few months after and they were buried at the Russian Orthodox Mission in Beijing and later transferred to Jerusalem where they now lie. Elisabeth's niece, Princess Alice, who is the mother of Prince Philip and mother in law of Queen Elizabeth II, is also buried here in a crypt below the church.
St. Mary Magdalene Church also has a convent attached and the nuns keep busy manicuring the beautiful gardens. They live in very small houses within the grounds and many of them keep cats, much to Vinci's delight.
Virgin Mary's Tomb & Gethsemane - Grotto
Virgin Mary's Tomb in Jerusalem is at the foot of the Mount of Olives, next to the Garden of Gethsemane. The tomb dating back to the Roman period was discovered in the 1970's. At the entrance a very long flight of stairs leads down to a subterranean church with the tomb in an apse to the right.
The subject of Mary's fate and where, when and what happened after her death are very hotly contested. I'm not even going to bother trying! Asides from Jerusalem, the location of her tomb has been claimed to be in Turkey, Turkmenistan, Pakistan and a couple of places in Iraq. What happened to her after Jesus rose into heaven is also contested, many Christian denominations and Muslims saying she spent some or the remainder of her life in Turkey. Many Christian faiths also believe that, like Jesus, she rose into heaven after being resurrected after three days.
Right next to the entrance of the tomb is the Grotto of Gethsemane, a small cave around 20 x 10 meters in size where Jesus and his disciples would gather and sometimes sleep. The cave was converted into a chapel in the very early days of Christianity. It was once owned by the Roman Catholic church, but the occupying Ottoman Turks booted them out and handed the keys to the Eastern Orthodox. Very ancient remains dating from the Roman times up to the Crusader period can be seen within.
Queen Helen Coptic Orthodox Church
This small church is located at station nine along the Via Dolorosa and is a little visited location. It is well worth a short visit and for the small sum of five shekels, they will allow you to head down a very narrow, dark and damp staircase to a huge two thousand year old water cistern!
The Coptics claim this reservoir was where the real cross was found, but this is not really widely agreed upon within the rest of the Christian community. Regardless of what religious significance this place may or may not have, it is nonetheless very interesting and peaceful. Chances are you will find yourself/ves alone here and the natural acoustics give off a stunning echo should you feel the need to blast out your favourite hymn or metal song.
Continue to part 26 - click here
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