Midreshet Ben Gurion
Midreshet Ben Gurion is a small settlement in the Negev desert, approximately 50 kilometers south of the large city of Be'er Sheva. It was established as an educational center by David Ben Gurion. Midreshet Ben Gurion (sometimes called Midreshet Sde Boker) was named after David Ben Gurion who led the Jewish community in the British Mandate Palestine from 1935 until the establishment of Israel in 1948. David would lead Israel until 1963 (with a short gap in 1954- 1955). He and his wife Paula are buried here.
We arrived in the evening from Be'er Sheva just before sunset and spent the night at the Nof-Beersheet, a bed & breakfast overlooking the desert and canyon. Finding this was a little difficult to locate thanks to the erroneous directions from our sat-nav app 'Waze, but we eventually located it. We arrived here the same day as the country's national election and as such, most of the shops in the small commercial center were shut. Fortunately a kebab shop was still lit up and we had a surprisingly very nice meal while watching a number of young plain clothes police with M-16 assault rifles guard the polling booth opposite.
We woke up early to watch the sun rise over the desert from our rooftop patio, a stunning site of deep purple and orange light gradually revealing the desert floor and revealing large patches of wild flowers.
As there were still a few hours before breakfast, we decided to go for a quick drive to En Avdat national park, only a couple of minutes away. The road to the national park is a very narrow and twisting road that descends steeply down the valley. We parked the car at a camping ground just after the Tsin river crossing and then began our long walk towards the entrance. There was still an hour before the opening time, but the entrance to the park was some distance off.
The cliff edges rise on both sides of the road and we enjoyed the sight of the many colored wild flowers, desert plants, interesting rocks and many types of birds. We were also hoping to see some of the Nubian ibex or camels that were purported to be in the area, alas none were spotted. Our walk ended up taking half an hour to reach the park entrance, but there was still half an hour before opening time and not wishing to be busted breaking into the place, we decided to head back. As we did so, the rangers arrived and pulled up next to us for a quick interrogation. I don't think they believed that we just walked up to the gate and were heading back, but they drove off regardless and we went back for breakfast.
The owner Iris provided us with quite simply, the best breakfast we have ever had. Everything was delicious and super fresh. This was my first try of Israeli Shakshuka, a dish of poached eggs in a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, onion, garlic etc. Whether or not this dish actually originates from Israel is heavily disputed, like everything else in this part of the world, but regardless, it is super nice. Here's a shocker, Vinci actually ate and enjoyed some cheese, claiming it was not like Australian cheese and I tried some of the salad, and exclaimed it tasted like salad. Even the next day's breakfast at the super fancy Be'ersheet hotel in Mitspe Ramon couldn't compete (and that was very good also).
We decided rather than make a second attempt to En Avdat, we would try Avdat instead and this became our main goal of the day (we would however visit En Avdat unexpectedly towards the end of the trip - Part 23). Avdat is situated on Route 40, a 10 kilometer drive south from our accommodation in Midreshet Ben-Gurion.
Avdat National Park
Avdat National Park is not to be confused with En Avdat National Park. Both are worth visiting and are in very close proximity to each other, but are world's apart. Avdat is the location of a large ancient Nabataean city in the Negev desert. The site is situated on the top of a plateau, found on Google maps at coordinates 30°47'39.17"N 34°46'24.64"E. The site is well preserved and has recently had a lot of resources and extra restoration put in after a large scale vandal attack in 2009.
The Nabataean Period
The first settlement belonged to the Nabataean's, a nomadic people of Arabic origin. Being nomadic, cities were uncommon until around 400BC when they began to form permanent settlements along the trade route they had established. The most famous Nabataean city is actually in Jordan and has become their most famous tourist site - the hidden city of Petra. The trade route was called the Incense Route, bringing goods from Saudi Arabia and Yemen to the port of Gaza, predominantly incense, spices, dyes and salt, but precious metals as well. This was a very lucrative trade and the Nabataean people and cities flourished. Much mystery surrounds their civilization. They appeared out of nowhere, built a successful and powerful empire and then faded away very abruptly.
The final Nabataean king was Rabbel II, and upon his death in 106AD, the kingdom was annexed by the Romans. The city lasted into the early 7th century until an earthquake destroyed the most of the place leading to its permanent abandonment shortly after.
Avdat was largely built over by the Roman's and little remains of the original Nabataean civilization. The remains of a Nabataean village is located just outside the main city to the north east. There are also a small handful of Nabataean era buildings found throughout the city, including a temple which survived right up until the end.
There are a numerous caves in most sides of the mountain. The ones at the bottom of the mountain on the south side were cut out by the Nabataean's and used for burying their dead. Excavations are continuing on a number of these caves and for the most part they are off limits to the public due to their instability. Some of the larger ones are visible from the road and one can clearly see the niches within where the bodies would have been placed.
Early Roman Period
Only small pockets of the early Roman period are left as much of the city was improved by the later Roman and Byzantine eras. The Roman tower near the eastern side of the city is the most dominant building still in existence.
To the far north east are the remains of a large Roman Army camp, a pottery workshop and a farmhouse. The army camp can be seen in the center of the photo below in the distance.
The Roman villa overlooks the south side of the valley and is a considerable distance from the walled city. A villa was essentially a holiday house for wealthy citizens. This site still shows the basic outlay of the house, including the courtyard, as well as two beautiful stone arches in the main room. The views are to die for from here, and the inhabitants probably did. The villa is dated back to the early Roman period.
A Roman burial chamber is located on the south eastern side of the mountain and dates from 300AD. It is believed this was a tomb for women as evidence has been found by the names discovered on many of the epitaphs. It is open to the public via a short walking trail off the main road, but is fairly well camouflaged and not sign posted. Like the Nabataean caves, the main hall is cut straight into the bed rock, although is much more modern and sophisticated. The main chamber is around 10 meters in length and width, and approximately 4 meters in height. The niches are positioned next to each other in a very orderly fashion. There are grooves at the base of each niche to allow a slab to slide in or out. Some of these niches were also made to accommodate up to three bodies in each one. The entrance is very unassuming, a simple stone facade with a small entrance under a single stone arch, however it is possible to still see some of the inscriptions and decorations carved into the stone, some of which are believed to be associated with the temple of Aphrodite.
As the city was in the desert and also on top of a plateau, water was a very precious resource. Most buildings and all the streets had gutters leading onto a larger channel which ran through the city. The water would flow off into large cisterns in the northern end of the city. One of the water channels can be seen in the photo below leading into the reservoir. Much of the water system is still visible today, although fenced off. The same system was used until the demise of the city, some 700 years or so later.
Byzantine Period
The bulk of the remains belong to the Byzantine era and many are rather well preserved. Unfortunately an infamous vandal attack took place in 2009 after losing a housing dispute with the authorities. The stone arches of the vaulted room (above) which lies adjacent to the Roman tower had to be reconstructed as well as numerous other buildings.
The large Byzantine residential quarter is located on the eastern side of the city between the southern gate with the Roman tower and the main city. The Byzantine government and administrative buildings, such as the one below, were much larger and generally better quality. The photo above shows the main courtyard of the Northern Church.
A wine press is located just outside the city walls on the south side of the city. This press was part of a large farmhouse and grapes from vines planted on the valley below were pressed here to make high quality wine. It dates back to the late Roman and Byzantine period. There is a large stone wheel used for pressing olives located nearby, but I couldn't find any information as to whether or not it was used here or at an unidentified olive press.
Two Christian churches exist within the city limits, the Northern church and St. Theodoros which was part of a large monastery. The Northern church is the older of the two. A baptistery was built adjacent to it upon the ruins of an old Nabataean temple.
The church of St. Theodoros was built in the middle of the city overlooking the southern slopes. The floor of the church contained some large marble slabs with inscriptions of people buried underneath. The earliest one found is inscribed with that of Theodoros (541AD) and the church is now named after him. Amongst the few visitors at the site was a small group of people participating in communion at the altar of the church.
We decided only when driving out of the site to make a final stop over at the Roman built bath house which is a considerable distance away from the city near the park entrance. This was built by the resident soldiers and with water provided from a large well dug nearby. We couldn't find a path or a road leading to the site, but Mr. Mitsubishi got us within an acceptable walking distance. Sadly the gates were all locked, but it was possible to see inside some of the windows where we could see the layout and design of a typical Roman bath house. We had already visited a large Roman bath house in Beit She'an (part 4) and would soon visit another in Masada (part 16).
After our visit, we continued south on Route 40 for our over night stay at Mitspe Ramon. More photographs from around the city are posted below.
"When Moses sent them to explore Canaan, he said, "Go up through the Negev and on into the hill country." - Numbers 13:17
The Roman burial chamber
Inscription above the entrance of the Roman burial chamber
Remains of a dwelling on the south side of the mountain, Roman era
Nabataean Burial caves cut into the mountain side. Others were on the western slope used and were used for storage
A view of the Roman villa over looking the Negev desert to the south
Some of the gorgeous desert flowers in bloom, an exceptionally rare event
Stone wheel used for pressing olive oil
An F-16I Sufa. The Air Force use this area for training exercises
The western path leading down to the base of the mountain
More wild flowers and greenery amongst the ruins for the first time in living memory
A marble slab bearing the details of a martyr inside the main floor area of St. Theodoros Church. Four people are buried within the church building
Base of the preacher's dais
Remains of the Northern church
Another view of Northern church amongst the rubble
A view of the valley facing south from one of the monastery rooms of St. Theodoros Church
The national park has provided St Theodoros church ruins with wooden benches so services can still take place!
A Byzantine cross embossed on one of the stones of St Theodoros church
This old guard house was part of the northern city walls, Roman era
Vinci at the northern gatehouse
Stone arch details of the northern gate house
Colorful wildflowers within the Byzantine square on the northern edge of the city
The remains of the huge water reservoir
Wildflowers growing on top of the walls of one of the buildings within the Roman square
Wall details inside the Byzantine square
A stone amongst the rubble bearing a Byzantine cross
A water channel leading on to a street in the Byzantine quarter
The Byzantine square on the north eastern corner of the city
A building in the Byzantine residential quarter on the eastern edge of the city near the Roman tower
Remains of a large building at the foot of the mountain, Byzantine era
A view of the city from the top of the Roman tower
Grass and flowers sprout out of the gaps in the stones on an ancient staircase
Continue to Part 12 - click here